Humanity is exalted not because we are so far above other living creatures, but because knowing them well elevates the very concept of life. E.O. Wilson, 1984

4 Jul 2011

La Ruta del Maya: 2. City of Bones


One of these cities is that of Palenque, which flourished under K´Inich Janaab Pakal between 615-683AD. Plazas, temples and houses spread, and the size of the city grew, but as with other Mayan settlements, it fell victim to a combination of war, famine and resource depletion. In other words, it was a victim of its own success, and the surrounding natural resources failed to accommodate its growing weight. Abandoned by 900AD, in an area which receives the highest rainfall in Mexico, it was quickly reclaimed by the jungle.
I find myself here today, in the early light of the morning. A mist still clings to the shoulders of the surrounding valleys, which ring with the echoes of Howler monkeys. But rather than stand as a mausoleum to past glories, instead you are gripped by the vitality of life here. Despite occupying less than 0.5% of Mexico's land mass, these jungles contain 4300 Plant species, 450 types of butterfly, 340 bird species and 163 different mammals.
Only a small number of the 500 or so ruins at the site have been excavated, leaving the remainder hidden beneath branch and vine. It seems fitting that the original name of the settlement was ‘B’aakal’, meaning bones.  The sheer scale of these make you wonder how this was achieved without metal tools, pack animals or the wheel. But perhaps more pressing is the question of what happened to the Mayan people after the collapse of the grandest civilization of Meso-America.

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